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Rescue Spotlight

Located in Glenside, PA The Rabbit Habit is a wonderful and hard working rescue dedicated solely to taking in and rehoming pet rabbits.

Basic Info

Rabbits are becoming increasingly popular pets as more and more people realize their potential. Rabbits are clean, adorable, trainable animals that can become very affectionate and friendly pets. They live longer than other small pets (up to 10 years or older) and often have more personality. Rabbits can even be litter-trained and given the run of a rabbit-proof room! However, rabbits are not for everyone. They require as much care and attention as a cat or a dog, and are not inexpensive, low-maintenance pets. They need high-quality food and bedding, proper habitats, regular veterinary care once a year and as needed, and lots of playtime and interaction with their humans.

Contrary to popular belief, rabbits do not usually make good children's pets, particularly for young children. Rabbits are difficult for small children to handle safely (for both the child and the rabbit) and either one - likely both - may become injured. Rabbits, despite being timid and very sensitive creatures, often have a surprising stubborn streak. They prefer doing things their way, and children will find this frustrating, particularly because most rabbits don't like to sit passively in a lap and be cuddled. For many reasons, children usually find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest. Please read Children and Rabbits for more information.

There are, of course, exceptions: if your child is a quiet, gentle person, who can empathize with the rabbit's needs and allow for life on the bunny's terms, a rabbit can be a wonderful pet for an older child (10+). The important thing to remember is that no child can take full responsibility for any pet. It is not fair to the animal or the child. An adult must be responsible for making sure the rabbit's needs are met and be the primary caretaker, no matter how mature the child.

Handling Rabbits:

Rabbits are strong animals and will defend themselves if mistreated. However, if you handle your rabbit properly she will become a gentle and loving pet. When picking up your rabbit, scoop her up by putting one hand under her forepaws and chest and your other hand on her rear. Be especially careful to support the rabbit's weight so she feels secure and hold her close to your body. You can use the scruff of the neck for additional support, but scruffing itself is not sufficient for picking up a rabbit. Never dangle a rabbit or hold her by the ears - this is both frightening and extremely painful.

Don't try to handle your rabbit for a few days upon bringing her home. Your new rabbit needs to adjust to her surroundings and become comfortable with you first. Petting is okay if the rabbit seems fine with it, but please let her have a chance to settle in before exposing her to stressful events (yes, handling can be a stressful event for a new rabbit).

Rabbits typically enjoy being petted, but are less fond of being picked up (due to being a prey animal by nature). Pet your rabbit on the top of the head and ears, along the sides of the face, and down the back. Avoid touching under the chin, belly, and hind end as most rabbits do not care for it.

Be Respectful of your Rabbit's "Space.":

Rabbits are, by nature, highly territorial animals. This does not mean they are vicious or nasty. Even the friendliest of rabbits will not appreciate someone "barging" into her house unannounced. If you just reach in and grab for the dirty towel or litter box, or even the food dish, without paying the rabbit her proper respect, you may be seen as a threat, and treated as such. How would you react if someone walked into your bedroom and started rifling through your personal belongings, even taking them away from you?

Your rabbit's cage is her safety zone, her home. Don't fuss about in it while your rabbit is inside, or bug the rabbit when she wants to rest. Let children know the proper ways to interact with the rabbit beforehand. Please follow these simple rules of rabbit etiquette when interacting with a bunny in her home:

Open the door slowly, and introduce yourself to the rabbit verbally. This may be as simple as saying, "Hello, Fluffy, how are you doing?" Rabbits cannot understand human speech, but they will recognize a friendly, warm tone as non-threatening.

Offer a treat, if possible. A small tidbit will reassure the rabbit that you are not a danger or threat. It helps strengthen a bond between the animal and you, too. Treats may also distract an especially territorial rabbit so that you can take care of the cage's needs without upsetting her.

Slowly reach in from above - not directly toward the chin/nose - and stroke the animal gently on the head. It is better to let the rabbit come up to you than to go grabbing for her. Continue talking to her in a gentle, reassuring tone.

If the rabbit seems relaxed, continue petting her while you quietly fill her food dish, remove her litter box, etc. If she seems at all ill at ease, it may be better to remove the rabbit from the cage while you fill her food dish/replace toys/take out litter pans. Rabbits are very concerned and protective about their belongings.

It is suggested with all rabbits that no extensive cleaning/rearranging of the rabbit's home be done with the rabbit inside. Pick up the rabbit gently and put her in a carrier or enclosed, rabbit-proofed room when you need to clean the entire cage.

Understanding your Rabbit:

Rabbits communicate in many different ways. Many people are surprised at just how expressive a rabbit can be, considering they can't whine or bark or otherwise loudly vocalize. To understand your rabbit, it is key that you learn to pick up on the signals it displays. It is difficult to sum up a rabbit's ways of communicating in this brief care sheet. For this essential information, go to: Rabbit Communication

Please be advised that rabbits may communicate in part using their teeth and their claws. This is normal rabbit behavior, and not to be confused for a sign of a "mean" or aggressive rabbit. Truly "vicious" rabbits are few and far between, and are usually the result of abusive situations. Most rabbits do not bite to seriously injure, but some may nip for a multitude of reasons - annoyance, hormonal shifts, irritation, attention-seeking behavior, boredom, etc. It is a common form of communication between rabbits themselves that they might use with their human companions as well. Making a high-pitched squeal if your rabbit nips will discourage the behavior; also, do not reward the rabbit for nipping. For example, if your rabbit nips to get your attention, walk away and ignore her. Hitting or otherwise disciplining a rabbit will not solve the problem and will often make matters worse.

Rabbits scratch when they feel threatened or defensive. It takes time and practice to learn how to properly handle rabbits, and it is to be expected that you may receive a few scratches from time to time. Under no circumstances should you consider declawing a rabbit. Declawing is physiologically and emotionally traumatizing to rabbits - the idea of it to people familiar with rabbit locomotion and behavior is beyond abhorrent. I have had the misfortune of encountering a rabbit who had been declawed. She could not groom herself, nor walk/hop properly, and required specialized care for the rest of her life. Much like with many declawed cats, she had become a problem biter and was extremely fearful and nervous. Keeping your rabbit's nails trimmed regularly will help minimize problems with scratching. Soft Claws™, the nail caps made for dogs and cats, can be safely used on rabbits as well.

Learning how to manage a rabbit's individual traits will require patience and understanding. If you are having behavioral problems with your rabbit, please work toward a solution to the problem rather than abandoning the animal. Your local HRS, animal shelter, and the author of this guide are available as resources to help overcome any behavioral issues.

Indoor vs. Outdoor Rabbits:

Although rabbits can certainly survive outside if kept in a weather-safe, predator-protected hutch, most rabbits are far happier indoors where they can be a part of the family. If properly cared for, rabbits have little/no odor, and a rabbit kept indoors will become more sociable and friendly. Rabbits need daily attention from their humans, and it is far easier for them to bond with people if kept indoors. Do you really want to trudge outside in the snow every day to spend time with your rabbit? Will you be as likely to notice health problems? Can you be sure she'll be safe from predators and thieves? Please consider keeping your bunny indoors - you will have a much more rewarding relationship. Indoor rabbits also tend to live much longer and be healthier than outdoor rabbits, as well.

Outdoor Housing:

If you absolutely must keep your rabbit outdoors, you must ensure the animal's home is protected both from the elements and from outdoor predators. It is crucial that the hutch is sturdily made. Many people have lost their rabbits due to attacks by domestic dogs and cats, as well as wild animals.

Outdoor hutches must have a windbreak, have a slanted roof to keep out rain, be elevated from the ground, and have a shelter for the rabbit to sleep in. Fill the hutch with ample straw, especially during the winter months, and cover with a tarp during severe weather. Be sure that the rabbit gets plenty of water - this is often overlooked during winter months. Be especially careful during warm weather; although rabbits are fairly resistant to cold, heat stroke is a common cause of death in outdoor rabbits. Rabbits should not be kept outside in extreme temperatures - they can freeze to death, and temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit can induce heat stroke. Be aware that outdoor rabbits may need to eat more than indoor rabbits. A good way to keep your rabbit cool is to fill a plastic pop bottle with water, freeze it, and place it in the rabbit's hutch. Replace once the water has melted. Check your rabbit's water supply daily as well. In any case, it is especially important to check your rabbit regularly as illnesses can easily be missed if the rabbit is kept outside.

Indoor Housing:

The key to a home for a rabbit is to purchase a cage that is as large as funds and space will permit. Even if your bunny gets free time outside the cage (which she should!), she should have a roomy, comfortable place to call her own. There's no such thing as "too big", but often rabbits are kept in cages that are far too small. Most rabbit cages available in pet stores are far too small for rabbits. A cage should be at least four-five times the length of your rabbit - again, the bigger, the better. Preferably the cage should open both from the top and side and have a large door(s). Don't purchase a cage with many levels - it could be dangerous for your rabbit. One or two levels is fine. Many bunnies do like a shelf to sit on.

A large, single or two-story, roomy wire cage made from powder-coated wire, with a solid base and floor, is an excellent choice. Powder coated cages are easier to keep clean and look better than galvanized wire, which soon rusts and falls apart. Some people prefer wire floors to a solid floor - this is a matter of debate in the rabbit world. Personally I feel wire flooring is not a good idea. It is uncomfortable for the rabbit and may lead to serious problems such as sore hocks or broken toes/toenails. If you must buy a cage with a wire bottom, make sure at least part of the floor is solid. You can put down a piece of wood, blanket/towel (be sure the bunny doesn't try to eat it!) or other material for your bunny to lie on. Check your rabbit's feet often for signs of thinning fur, calluses, or sores, particularly if your rabbit is a heavier one. Some breeds, such as mini-rexes and Flemish Giants, are more prone to sore hocks, and thus need a completely solid floor without exception.

Wire dog crates (with solid trays) are also an excellent cage alternative. Again, the bigger, the better, and powder-coat is definitely recommended. A rabbit kept in this style of cage must be litter box trained. There are also many people in the rabbit world making their own custom cages out of the Target "Neat Idea" cubes (Cavy Cages), or simply using puppy pens for their rabbits. Look around online to find out what is the best choice for you and your bunny.

Male or Female?:

Both male and female rabbits can be equally good pets, especially if spayed/neutered. Females tend to be slightly more territorial than males. Unaltered males and females may spray urine and exhibit unwanted behavior such as mounting, territorialism, aggression, and restlessness due to their desire to mate. It is highly advised that all pet rabbits be spayed or neutered (see Should You Fix Your Rabbit? below).

Regardless of sex, most rabbits go through a brief "teenager" phase where they may act particularly pugnacious and difficult to handle. This phase is often exacerbated if your rabbit is not altered before this time. This change in behavior typically begins at about 4-6 months of age, and usually has ended by the time the rabbit is over a year old. This stage of life can be very difficult and frustrating for the new rabbit owner - your previously sweet and loving bunny may develop quite a negative attitude and do just about everything in its power to bother and annoy you! This is one reason why many rabbits in shelters are abandoned as adolescents. They are no longer tiny, cute, passive babies and have become typical teenagers and most people do not realize that this phase is normal and temporary, or that neutering and time will help. If you want a baby bunny, you must have a great deal of patience and time to spend with her. This is a great reason to adopt a mature rabbit that is a year or older from a shelter - puberty is over and done with!

Baby or Adult?:

There are many myths surrounding rabbits, and one very sad one is that you must get a rabbit as a baby or it will not bond with you. Nothing is further from the truth. There are a great many reasons to consider adopting a mature rabbit rather than a baby. Mature rabbits are cleaner, easier to litter train, calmer, and more loving. When adopting a mature adult, you have a much better sense of her personality and can choose one that matches up with what you'd like in a pet rabbit. Babies, on the other hand, can go any which way, and frequently do change a great deal as their personalities develop. They may be calm and cuddly as young babies, but when they hit adolescence, very few remain that way.

For more information on baby bunnies, as well as age-related behavior, please visit:

Myths About Baby Rabbits

Age Related Behavior

One or Two?:

If you are brand new to rabbit keeping, it is probably best to stick with one rabbit to start, so long as you are able to provide lots of daily attention. Although rabbits are social animals, it must not be forgotten that they are also highly territorial. Many rabbits are perfectly happy living alone. If your bunny seems lonely, keep in mind that bonding rabbits is not always an easy process. Be aware that you could end up with two rabbits that hate each other and must be kept separate their entire lives.

There are, however, many good reasons to consider adopting a pair of rabbits! A pair of rabbits can keep each other company when you are not home, and rabbits tend to be much less destructive or bored when they have a companion. There are many joys to watching bonded rabbits interact as they are meant to do. See (Should I Get A Second Rabbit?) for more info on why rabbits should have a friend (although I must say I disagree with their suggestion of non-rabbit companions - there are many dangers and risks in keeping two different species together and I do NOT recommend doing so!)

If you do want more than one rabbit, both must be altered beforehand. Sisters from the same litter are typically the easiest to keep together, while unrelated males are generally the most difficult. Probably the most ideal situation is to adopt a pair of rabbits that are already bonded. If you choose to introduce your rabbit to another later on, the easiest route to take is to get a rabbit of the opposite sex of your current rabbit. The resident rabbit will be more likely to accept it. The two must be introduced together on neutral territory, and must not be left unsupervised until you are certain they have bonded. Almost all rabbits can be bonded eventually, but some may take years to even learn to tolerate each other. For more information on bonding rabbits, visit Rabbit.org. Be sure to do plenty of research before attempting to bond two rabbits!

Diet:

Diet for rabbits is quite a big debate in the rabbit world. Many rabbit breeders feed their rabbits only pellets and hay, and consider veggies as treat foods, while the HRS and most pet owners incorporate veggies on a much larger scale and consider them an essential part of rabbit nutrition. Some people choose not to feed pellets at all, and only give their bunnies veggies and hay. A rabbit is capable of living a long, healthy life on any one of these diets, but such disparity often leads to arguments when people forget that there is no absolute "right" way to keep and care for a rabbit.

I choose to feed my rabbits a diet that is based on the House Rabbit Society diet, but is a bit more moderate in terms of veggies and other fresh foods. This "middle ground" is what has worked for me personally with my rescues, and what I feel comfortable recommending to new rabbit owners. I feel it works better than either extreme (all pellets and no veggies, or all veggies and no pellets). However, please keep in mind that all rabbits are different, and what works for one may not work for another. I offer my feeding instructions as a guideline that is based on a lot of research and personal experience - you may decide to modify it as needed.

Hay:

Undisputedly, the main part of any rabbit's diet should be good-quality loose timothy hay. Fresh alfalfa hay is too rich for older bunnies (over a year old), so should be fed sparingly as a treat or not at all. Hay prevents blockages and provides valuable fiber. Rabbits should be fed as much timothy hay as they will consume. A hay rack is helpful to ensure a good supply is available at all times. You can also make hay more interesting for your rabbit by putting it in cardboard tubes, stuffing it into boxes or baskets, and varying the type of hay on occasion. Orchard grass, brome, and oat hay are all suitable for rabbits.

Oxbow (Oxbow hay) and American Pet Diner (American Pet Diner hay) are excellent companies to purchase hay from. If you buy timothy in the pet or feed store, make sure it is fresh and free of contamination. Never feed moldy, overly dusty, brown or damp hay. Store hay in a non airtight container, in a dry, cool place. For more tips on storing hay and pellets, visit storage tips.

Pellets:

Good quality plain rabbit pellets are the second part of a rabbit's diet. Alfalfa pellets* are the most commonly available type, although timothy pellets may be a better choice for rabbits over a year old. Whatever brand you buy, make sure they are fresh and appetizing. Pellets should smell good and look good (not dry and overly dusty or light brown). Again, never feed moldy, stale, or damp pellets. Store pellets in a dry, cool environment, preferably in an air-tight container.

A good pellet will be composed of approximately 14-16% protein, be high in fiber (17-18% minimum, the higher, the better!), and be low in fat and calcium. Avoid high protein pellets, as these are designed for younger animals. Good brands are Purina Complete Plus, American Pet Diner, or Oxbow. Mixes sold in pet stores that are composed of all kinds of "junk" like seeds and grains are not an ideal base food for rabbits. Feed only plain, good-quality pellets.

A healthy adult rabbit will eat about a one fourth of a cup - 1 cup of pellets per day, depending on the breed. I feed my 5.5 lb mini-rexes a little less than one fourth of a cup of Oxbow pellets each per day, while my Flemish Giant (17 lbs) gets one half to three fourths cup of pellets a day. A good general idea of how much to feed daily is one fourth of a cup of pellets per five pounds of rabbit. If a rabbit is overweight and does not get much exercise, or ignores her hay in favor of pellets, decrease the amount of pellets fed. Lots of hay in the diet is much more important. Young rabbits (under a year old) should be fed unlimited alfalfa pellets.

Feed pellets in a heavy bowl that cannot be tipped over easily or chewed up. Better yet are food bowls that attach to the side of the cage, and thus cannot be dumped. Clean and disinfect food bowls once a week.

*Timothy pellets are becoming available more often. Some claim that timothy pellets are better for older and overweight animals, but if weight is an issue and you cannot find timothy pellets, simply cutting down on the amount of alfalfa pellets should suffice.

Veggies, Fruits & Other Supplements:

Fresh vegetables and fruits are eagerly consumed by rabbits and are a very important part of their diet. The key to feeding these is moderation and good common sense. A rabbit that is fed too much fresh food all at once will get diarrhea, which can be dangerous - even lethal. The best bet is to introduce a new food slowly and gradually, and never feed too much of it. Add one vegetable or fruit to the diet at a time. Eliminate if it causes soft stools or diarrhea. Feed sugary vegetables and fruits sparingly, and avoid iceberg lettuce and cabbage - both are not good for your rabbit. Be especially careful when feeding rabbits under the age of six months. Rabbits younger than 12 weeks should not be fed fresh food of any kind.

I feed my mini-rexes about 1 cup of veggies each per day, while my Flemmie gets about 3 cups of veggies daily. Remember to start gradually and feed no more than 3-4 cups of veggies a day even for the largest rabbits. Following my diet, rabbits should get about 1 cup of veggies per five pounds of rabbit. Remember also that every rabbit is different, and some may have different needs. Keeping an eye on the general health of your rabbit and its droppings is advised no matter what the diet. Be sure your rabbit is eating plenty of hay!

Suggested Veggies (from Rabbit.org):

Alfalfa, radish & clover sprouts
Basil
Beet greens (tops)*
Bok choy
Broccoli (mostly leaves/stems)*
Brussels sprouts
Carrot & carrot tops*
Celery
Cilantro
Clover
Collard greens*
Dandelion greens and flowers (no pesticides)*
Endive*
Escarole
Green peppers
Kale (!)*
Mint
Mustard greens*
Parsley*
Pea pods (the flat edible kind)*
Peppermint leaves
Raddichio
Radish tops
Raspberry leaves
Romaine lettuce (no iceberg or light colored leaf)*
Spinach (!)*
Watercress*
Wheat grass

(!)=Use sparingly. High in either oxalates or goitrogens and may be toxic in accumulated quantities

* =contains Vitamin A, highly recommended once per day

Suggested Fruits (feed sparingly due to sugar content)

Apple (remove stem and seeds)
Banana
Blueberries
Melon
Orange (including peel)
Papaya
Peach
Pear
Pineapple
Plums
Raspberries
Strawberries

Treats:

Everyone wants to give their rabbits a treat now and then! However, be very careful what pet store treats you buy for your rabbit - many are designed to appeal to consumers and are not especially healthy for rabbits themselves. Always check the ingredients and nutritional information on the package, and steer away from those that have little or no nutritional value, are high in sugar, protein, calcium, or fat, or contain ingredients not appropriate for rabbits such as animal meal/sterol and artificial preservatives like BHT and ethoxyquin. Try to avoid feeding seeds, as these may be difficult to digest, and remember that although rabbits do have quite a sweet tooth, too much sugar isn't any better for them than it is for you.

Overall, your rabbit (and your wallet) are much better off given bits of dry or fresh fruit as treats instead of commercial treats. Oxbow does carry healthy treats for rabbits, so pay their site a visit. I especially recommend their papaya/pineapple tablets - my rabbits go nuts for them.

Diet Quick Review

Young rabbits (under a year): Feed unlimited alfalfa pellets along with a mixture of timothy and alfalfa hay available at all times. Start introducing veggies very slowly and carefully at 3 months of age, and gradually increase the amount of veggies and decrease the amount of alfalfa hay as the rabbit approaches one year of age.

Mature rabbits (one year to seven years): As the rabbit approaches one year, slowly decrease the amount of pellets fed until the rabbit is eating approximately one fourth of a cup per five pounds of body weight. Consider gradually switching to timothy pellets rather than alfalfa pellets. Eliminate alfalfa hay and feed free choice timothy hay. Continue to increase veggies, especially leafy greens, until the rabbit is consuming approximately 1 cup per five pounds of body weight.

Senior rabbits (seven years to twelve years or older): Continue to feed the diet recommended for mature rabbits, but monitor the bunny's condition carefully. As rabbits age, they tend to either pack on the weight or lose it steadily. Adjust your rabbit's diet accordingly, increasing or decreasing pellets as needed. Some older rabbits may need to be fed unlimited pellets to prevent weight loss. Keep a close eye on your rabbit's teeth, as they may overgrow or develop spurs that prevent eating normally.

Water:

Clean, fresh water is absolutely necessary for rabbits at all times. A water bottle that hangs outside the cage where it cannot be chewed is the best choice. Water bowls tip easily and quickly become unsanitary. Change the water frequently, and give it a good shake and test with a fingertip to make sure water flows properly on demand. A bottle brush is good for cleaning - make sure to rinse very well when using soap or bleach.

Bedding:

Although commonly sold in pet stores, both cedar and pine shavings are toxic to all animals, causing respiratory and liver damage due to the phenols contained in the wood. It is best to use a safe bedding made from recycled paper, like Carefresh or Cell-Sorb Plus, or aspen shavings for the cage material (aspen is a hardwood and does not contain phenols). These products are soft and absorbent. Clean straw may also be used. Newspaper or cardboard makes a handy and inexpensive cage liner.

For more information on the dangers of pine and cedar visit the following links:

Litter Training:

Rabbits are intelligent and clean animals, and are surprisingly easy to litter train. All you need is a litter pan (the ones for cats are fine, or you can get one of the hard plastic ones with a high back made for rabbits). Litter training is highly recommended because it means only a small area of the cage needs to be cleaned every day to three days, while the whole cage only needs to be cleaned once a week or so.

Cat litter is not ideal for rabbits, and may even be bad for their health (it's incredibly dusty, too!). I use untreated hardwood stove pellets, available at TSC Tractor Supply and similar places. They are cheap (about $5 for 30-40 lbs), safe, and control odor. Yesterday's News (pelleted newspaper), All Pet Pine (safe pelleted pine litter, treated to remove phenols), Gentle Touch (pelleted aspen), Woody Pet, and Critter Country may also be used as litter. If you must use cat litter (not recommended!), use plain, unscented, pure clay litters. Clumping litters are especially dangerous and may kill your rabbit if ingested.

Rabbits typically only use one corner of the cage to urinate. Place the litter box in this corner, and put some droppings or urine-soaked material inside it. The rabbit will quickly get the idea, although accidents may still happen. Rabbits get better at litter training with altering and age. It is very possible to give your rabbit the run of a room of the house, or even a large area of the house, with litter training and rabbit-proofing of a home. Just remember to start out small - cage first, then a small run area, then a room, etc.

If you have difficulty with litter training, try these tips:

Alter your rabbit. Altered rabbits are much, much easier to litter train.

Suspend the hay rack above the litter box, and/or put hay in the box itself. Rabbits enjoy eating and pooping at the same time , and the hay will cushion the box.

Try putting more than one litter box in the rabbit's cage. You can always eliminate the extras once your bunny gets the idea.

Pick up all the poops your rabbit leaves outside of the litter box and place them in the box. Keep up on this task several times a day until your rabbit learns where it should poop.

Reward the bunny with a treat and petting if you catch it using the box.

Try moving the litter box. Some rabbits may change their minds about where they want to go.

Change the litter. Some bunnies are pickier than others. Experiment with the types listed above.

Make sure to clean up accidents thoroughly (use white vinegar or Nature's Miracle).

Be patient. Litter habits improve with age.

Toys and Chews

Rabbit teeth grow constantly throughout their lifetimes. If they do not get worn down properly, they may grow so long the rabbit cannot eat and may die. To avoid this, a rabbit must be supplied with things to gnaw upon. Good quality hay helps greatly to aid in tooth management, but having other chews available is a good idea. There are many choices available in pet stores, such as Bunny Bites, Lava stones, and beak blocks (for birds generally). Avoid rawhide and calcium chews. Untreated, washed branches from some trees may be used as well, though check to make sure the wood is not toxic to rabbits.

Rabbits also need mental stimulation. Wire cat toys, cardboard boxes, paper bags, empty toilet paper rolls (or ones stuffed with hay), phone books, and hanging baby blocks/keys are a favorite with my rabbits. Anything that can be rattled, tossed, and thrown, that is made of a safe, durable material, is a good bet. Rotate their toys for the best results. For more information, check out Rabbit.org for good suggestions. Bunny Bytes and The Busy Bunny have many great toy ideas, too.

Grooming Care:

Rabbits are very clean animals, and almost never need a bath. They do, however, require regular brushing and nail care. Especially while your rabbit is shedding (which they do about every three months), be sure to brush them thoroughly. Grooming supplies include a wire slicker brush, a cat Zoom Groom, and a soft bristled brush. I groom my mini-rex with one of the sticky roller brushes - nothing else picks up the finer hairs on his coat. You can also groom your rabbit by wetting your hands and running them over your bunny's coat.

Rabbits need their nails clipped at least once every two months, or as needed, otherwise they become too long and may catch and splinter painfully. The guillotine style clippers sold for dogs and cats work best. Simply hold the rabbit on your lap and hold each paw as you cut. Be very careful not to cut down to the quick of the nail. It is easy to see the quick on light colored nails, but much more difficult with darker ones. You can use a flashlight (have a friend help you) to shine through the nail to see the quick. If unsure, err on the side of caution and only clip the very ends of the nail.

If you do cut the quick, it will bleed and cause the rabbit pain. You can stop the bleeding by applying firm pressure with a paper towel, although in severe instances you should use styptic powder, flour, or cornstarch to stop the bleeding. Keep an eye on the nail for a few days. If the nail refuses to stop bleeding, get the rabbit to a vet.

Veterinary Care:

If given proper care, your rabbit should not often become ill. However, this does not mean proper vet care is not needed! I suggest finding a good rabbit vet very early on, as you never know when you may need one. Additionally a check-up once a year is a very good idea. Make sure the clinic staff is familiar with rabbits and their individual needs. Just because a clinic will treat rabbits does not mean they know rabbits. I take my rabbits to Animal Kingdom Veterinary Clinic in Saline, but All Creatures in Ann Arbor and Cherry Hill Animal Clinic are both good places.

Some signs that your rabbit may be ill include: sitting hunched up and loudly grinding its teeth, loss of appetite, diarrhea, dry coat, listlessness, runny nose/eyes, heavy breathing. If your rabbit exhibits any of these signs or seems to be acting differently than usual, call your vet immediately. If a rabbit is not eating or drinking, and/or exhibits watery diarrhea, it must be taken to a vet ASAP. This is considered an emergency situation!

Should You Fix Your Rabbit?:

Yes, yes, yes! I highly recommend that pet rabbits be neutered or spayed. Males can be neutered as early as three to four months of age, while females should be spayed sometime around five or six months. Unaltered rabbits exhibit territorialism and may spray urine and poop everywhere to mark their territory. Both females and males may be moody and may even bite out of their restlessness and preoccupation. Altered rabbits are also much easier to litter train, and if you want your rabbit to be able to run around outside its cage or have a bunny companion, it must be fixed. Almost all behavioral problems with a rabbit can be fixed or greatly reduced with spaying or neutering!

Not only does neutering/spaying make the rabbit happier and easier to live with, but it has important health benefits as well. Unspayed female rabbits have up to an 80% chance of developing uterine cancer within their lifetimes, and unneutered male rabbits may develop testicular cancer (this has been on the rise!). Excess hormones suppress the immune systems in rabbits and can increase the possibility of illness. Unspayed females often experience "phantom pregnancies" which are extremely stressful to the rabbit, and unpleasant for the pet owner. Rabbits that are spayed or neutered live much longer, happier, healthier lives. The average life span of unaltered rabbits is 6-7 years, while rabbits that are altered typically live 10 years or longer. Although it is best to fix rabbits when they are younger, unless there is a known health problem, older rabbits may safely be neutered or spayed. If your rabbit is older, be sure to inform your veterinarian. Keep in mind that rescues routinely spay/neuter rabbits as old as eight or nine.

When done properly by an experienced rabbit vet, surgery risks are very minor. PLEASE spay/neuter your rabbit. It's the responsible thing to do, and you'll have a happier, healthier, more enjoyable pet.

When it comes time to alter your bunny, make sure the vet is familiar with the surgery in rabbits. He/she should use only isoflorine anesthetic and know to keep the rabbit warm during the surgery. Don't take away food or water beforehand (rabbits cannot throw up, and withholding food is far more dangerous than allowing the rabbit to eat/drink normally). It is a good idea to bring something your bunny really likes (leafy greens are good) and some hay for her to eat once she wakes up at the vet; she needs to keep her GI tract moving. If your rabbit does not resume eating/drinking normally within a few hours of surgery, contact your vet immediately!

Rabbits do not tolerate pain very well, and it is a very good idea to make sure the vet gives her something for pain immediately following the surgery (usually Metacam or Torb). Your vet should be able to provide you with pain medicine to give your rabbit should she show signs of discomfort once you bring her home.

Keep your rabbit quiet when she gets home, and keep a close eye on the incision. It will most likely be glued closed with surgical glue and will not need suture removal. Be aware that some bunnies will chew at the surgical site. If this occurs, contact your vet immediately. The vet can provide you with a collar or "spay sock" to prevent your rabbit from worrying at the incision.

Please see Spaying and Neutering for more information.

A Note on Breeding

Please do not breed your pet rabbit. There are literally thousands of unwanted, homeless rabbits sitting in shelters all over the US. Rabbits are the third most common animal found in animal shelters worldwide. Don't believe me? Check Petfinder for rabbits.

Rabbit breeding is a complex, difficult field that requires not only monetary resources, but a great deal of knowledge in genetics. Even if you think you can find homes for the babies, please don't breed pet rabbits, particularly those of unknown history and mixed breed. Mixed breeds make just as wonderful pets, but there is no reason to add more animals to this world unless you work to improve a breed in all aspects. There are far too many animals out there already that need homes, and way too many irresponsible and unethical breeders as well.

Some valuable links to consider regarding animal breeding (some links refer to other animals, but the same principles apply):

Hundreds of rabbits and small animals - baby, young, old, mixed breed, purebred, of all sizes and ages - are euthanized in animal shelters all across the country every day. Remember this simple mantra - Please don't breed or buy while shelter pets die.

Avoiding Breeding "Accidents":

Rabbits become sexually mature as early as 12 weeks of age, so take care to separate the sexes before this time. Rabbits do not go into heat and can breed at any time, so be sure to keep unaltered males and females apart at all times. Don't let them together, even for "supervised" visits - it only takes a few seconds. Keep in mind that an average litter size is six-eight babies, and a doe can potentially have twice that number of offspring. Also please keep in mind that a rabbit can mate again immediately after giving birth.

It is very difficult to sex young rabbits, so if you are at all in doubt, contact a reliable source (vet, breeder). Pet store employees most often can not sex rabbits properly, so never take their word for it.